Notable Edible

Plumb Oyster Bar

By / Photography By | January 04, 2019
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Oysters at Plumb Oyster Bar in Troy, New York.

Heidi Knoblauch has always had an entrepreneurial spirit. Whether it involved her invention in third grade of the “table top meal mover” that incorporated robotics, or selling Pixy Stix on the back of the school bus in sixth grade. It is this drive that led her to make the leap from working in academia to opening an oyster bar in 2016.

Knoblauch spent her childhood in upstate New York and attended the Emma Willard School in Troy before moving on to the University of Rochester. After enrolling, she decided to shift gears for a year to work in public health in New York City prior to beginning her pursuit of a PhD in the history of science and medicine at Yale University. After graduation, she secured a position teaching history at Bard College, which she loved, but eventually had the itch to do something different.

“I loved academia because it gave me time to learn how to be a critical thinker,” Knoblauch says. “I loved academia because I like teaching. The things that were hard about it was that it was slow. People talked in decades when I wanted to think about the first quarter of the year.”

As she pondered her next move, she found out that the building her mother bought in 2010 had a vacancy. She knew the time was right to exercise those entrepreneurial muscles and began the process of opening her restaurant. Why oysters? Knoblauch and her wife, Kelly, began developing their love for oysters and one another by checking out $1 oyster nights at various spots in their Brooklyn neighborhood. Then, they progressed to more exclusive oyster bars to expand their knowledge and palates. “Oysters are the only thing that tastes like what they consume,” Knoblauch says in describing what makes oysters so unique. “You can tell where an oyster ate salt water.”

Thus, on December 6, 2016, with a generous loan from the City of Troy, Plumb Oyster Bar opened with Knoblauch as the sole owner. Choosing to have her business in Troy was a homecoming of sorts and a way for Knoblauch to contribute to the community. Troy, for Knoblauch, has an “essence and energy about it...that’s a little rough around the edges.” She notes that the city itself contains a varied mix of people; those who have lived here their entire lives and others who choose to come into the city just for the night.

Regardless of clientele, the menu at Plumb offers something for every palate, not only those looking for fresh oysters. Plumb boasts an array of small plates, such as beet tartare served with Maplebrook Farm’s ricotta, arugula and hazelnut, as well as local cheeses. Sandwiches feature chicken, a beef or veggie burger, and entr.es run the gamut from mussels and bacon-wrapped scallops to traditional steak frites. The beverage accompaniments offer a thoughtfully curated selection of craft cocktails, wines from small producers and a selection of both local and international beers. As with Plumb’s food purveyors, such as Adventure in Food and Island Creek Oysters, Knoblauch has developed close relationships with her spirits providers as well, which include Albany Distilling, Chatham Beer, YesFolk Tonic, Ravines Winery, Ryan’s Rye, Smaltz and Paradox.

Of course, Knoblauch would recommend trying the oysters, of which there are five to seven varieties offered daily. Plumb tries to offer a good mix of East and West Coast options to satisfy every taste. Knoblauch’s favorite used to be West Coast oysters, but now her go-to is a Prince Edward Island oyster like the Pink Moon. However, her absolute favorite is the Hog Island Atlantic, an East Coast oyster grown out West.

Heidi Knoblauch is the owner of Plumb Oyster Bar in Troy, New York.
Plumb Oyster Bar in Troy, New York that offers local craft beverages.

Plumb Oyster Bar is deceptively large, and as such, has a rotating staff of 19 to 20 people that includes general manager Molly McCumber, lead oyster shucker Charles Bettis and executive chef Eric Murtagh. Murtagh was the sous chef at the Cafe Madison before joining Plumb Oyster Bar in the same capacity. He took over the kitchen in November 2017. The connections the staff have developed through working together at Plumb have been further enhanced by the unique circumstance that a number live in the apartments directly above the restaurant, including Knoblauch and her wife! Only one apartment is not occupied by restaurant staff.

The support Plumb has received from the community at large has been tremendous, from personal connections like Knoblauch’s fourth-grade teacher, Bard faculty and old high school friends dropping by to her dad visiting on Sunday mornings. They all help warm and enliven the space, allowing for memories in the making. Knoblauch has also given back to her school community by employing a number of Emma Willard students as well as hosting an AP economics class to show the real-life applications of the skills acquired through course work.

“Troy is an incredibly receptive place for new entrepreneurs,” Knoblauch says. “I was very lucky to be surrounded by friends and family who were always there to cheer me on. My mom owns the building Plumb is in and has supported me from the beginning. My father did everything from putting up shelves to putting closers on the bathroom doors to building tables. My sister Julie does all the holiday decorations. My sister Alex was a hostess here. And, of course, my wife is my biggest cheerleader. She comes up with the best signature cocktails and supports every facet of the restaurant and just me generally.”

Only two years into this venture, Knoblauch already has a solid idea of what’s next. A credit card receipt organizing system called ReceiptHQ. Since restaurants are required to keep customer’s credit card receipts for 18 months in case of chargeback claims, ReceiptHQ would allow for restaurants to send Knoblauch their receipts every week. She would then scan them and put them in a Web app where they could be searched by the last four digits of the credit card number and date. The app would allow for digital copies to be accessed quickly and easily sent off to whomever is requesting a copy, such as the customer, credit card company or IRS.

Ultimately, Knoblauch feels that the research skills she acquired while working on her PhD have helped drive her success in the restaurant world. Her desire for establishing systems has helped her to develop a solid work flow. That being said, the restaurant world can be unpredictable, but that’s precisely what she loves about it! 

Knoblauch says, “The beauty and tough part about restaurants is that everything is in fl ux. It’s beautiful because it’s based on tension...a beautiful ball of tension that expands and contracts. Academia fostered the bookworm in me. Academia is studying in a library, but running a restaurant is a sport. You can practice as much as you want, but ultimately the game starts at 4:00 p.m. every day.”

Heidi Knoblauch | @heididily
Plumb Oyster Bar | @plumboysterbar
Maplebrook Farm | @maplebrookfarm
Adventure in Food | @advenutreinfoodtrading
Island Creek Oysters | @islandcreekoysters
Albany Distilling | @albanydistillingco
Chatham Beer | @chathambrewing
YesFolk Tonic | @yesfolk
Ravines Winery
Upstate Distilling Co. | @upstatedistilling
Molly McCumber | @mollymccumber
Eric Murtagh | @mr.loaf
Cafe Madison | @cafe_madison
ReceiptHQ

 

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