Bimi's Canteen
“Hi, I’m here to meet Melissa.”
“Great! You can head right through to the back.”
Stepping behind the cheese counter at Bimi’s Cheese Shop, I’m greeted with a hug by Bimi PR lead Melissa. Behind her through the office door, Bimi owner Ellen Waggett protests, mouth full, sitting by a desk neatly stacked with papers, and asks for a minute to finish the very late lunch she’s sneaking in between appointments.
This moment, as much as hearing all of the extraordinary thought and creativity that Ellen has poured into the new restaurant Bimi’s Canteen, illustrates the grit and perseverance underpinning the charm, beauty and countless thoughtful details that customers experience at Bimi’s. Juggling a full-time career as a stage designer with a full-time role as Bimi’s fearless leader on top of parenting responsibilities, Ellen is not a jack but a master of all trades, and she and her husband, Christopher Landy, have built a real gem here at the center of Chatham, New York.
Ellen steps out from the office, beaming a welcoming smile, and guides us back through the Cheese Shop to Bimi’s Canteen just next door, where chef Jesse Curtin and mixologist Andrey Matseyev have laid a beautiful table.
As we enjoy a cheese plate featuring local favorite Jake’s Aged Gouda, Ellen opens up about her experience founding and growing Bimi’s.
Since Ellen and Christopher bought their Chatham home 18 years ago, they have not only fallen in love with the historic town, they have also poured their hearts into it. Founding Bimi’s Cheese Shop was just the start.
Now Bimi’s Canteen offers guests a full dining experience, bar and the warmest, most lovely atmosphere. Ellen hopes to see the Canteen become a part of Chatham community life, as diners stop in for a bite before catching a movie at the nearby Crandell Theatre, or gather with friends and family for a meal that stretches on into the evening, or pop by after dinner for pastry chef Claire Raposo’s desserts and a nightcap at Bimi’s low-lit, subterranean bar.
Ellen and Christopher have applied a lifetime of set design talent to create a space fully conducive to these scenarios. Everything about Bimi’s Canteen is convivial, stylish and most of all welcoming. Architectural details like the building’s original brick walls and tin ceilings along with antique light fixtures set a perfect ambience and set a backdrop for sourced quirky, unique and totally perfect pieces—like a massive oversize antique door connecting the cheese shop and canteen, and the restaurant’s tables, all made from a single local walnut tree. It’s a place one could easily build into their routine or enjoy for a celebration or special night out.
Beyond its beauty and style, Bimi’s Canteen is also delicious. The menu features cheese, of course, including two slates—local and global boards featuring fine cheeses, dried fruits, nuts and other tasty bites. While cheese is a natural strong suit, the menu showcases fresh produce and quality meat and fish, as well as a few classic comforts. Dessert and drinks are also not to be missed. The lemon tart in particular promises to keep guests coming back.
While Bimi’s Canteen only opened earlier this summer, I ask Ellen what’s next and she admits that they also have plans for a gelateria to complete their stretch of Main Street. Does this woman ever stop? Laughing, Ellen tells me the most dangerous words her kids claim to have heard her speak are, “You know what we should really do?”
While her kids might bemoan their mother and father’s endless zest for problem solving and new creations, diners can count their blessings. A last detail catches the eye on the way out... The well-worn Victorian door handle of Bimi’s Cheese Shop gleams where hand after hand has left a patch of softly burnished brass. This beautiful, glowing handle not only speaks to the character and charm of Bimi’s but also its central role as a beloved anchor on Main Street in Chatham Village. If you haven’t made a pilgrimage to the original cheese shop or visited the new Canteen, please take my advice and plan a trip. If you go for the cheese, you’ll certainly stay for the charm.
19 Main Street, Chatham, NY | BimisCanteen.com
Laughing, Ellen tells me the most dangerous words her kids claim to have heard her speak are, “You know what we should really do?”
